Tuesday, October 16, 2007

Out and About

Dearest readers,

For those of you traveling to Rome sometime, this blog may be of particular interest to you as I highlight some of Rome’s lesser known attractions. Strange as it may be, I have been in Rome for almost a month now and have yet to visit the Coliseum, the Roman Forum and the Roman Palatine (ancient Rome’s famous attractions) as well as anywhere inside the Vatican (Rome’s other must-see). Perhaps this because these sites cost the most, or maybe because I know that the longer I wait the smaller the crowds will be. Either way, I am glad that I have missed out thus far, since it is given me time to enjoy less popular, but equally stunning, locations within and out of the city.

After work Friday, I started my weekend with vigorous work-out, attempting to run from Piazza del Popolo down past the Coliseum and Piramade Metro stop for the purpose of turning in the Run-for-Food registration forms at the sport’s center there. I should have taken the Metro, but since I plan to run the 10K, I figured the work-out was in order. However, I quickly noticed upon departure the running with a full backpack is extremely difficult. I made it the Victor Emmanuel II Monument (about half-way) before slow to a speed walk. An hour and a half from when I left work, I made it with fifteen minutes to spare. This humorous conversation followed:

“Ciao! Are you here to register Run-for-Food?”
“Si, signore.”
“Only one?”
“No.”
“Two?”
“No.”
“How many?”
“Thirty-five.”

I raced home when I was finished, taking a quick shower before heading out again. I planned to meet two other interns and my office partner for dinner downtown. It was difficult place to find, and I warned the others to use Google Maps. I was fifteen minutes late but did not see them down there. After forty minutes, I asked for my own table, at which point they said there was a short wait. I left, walked about, and when I returned, the others had arrived. We then had to wait even longer for the table of four. The meal was delicious though, and afterward we walked around to experience Roman nightlife. I found it funny that some piazzas were geared toward young Northern Europeans and Americans, filled with wild pubs that Italian did not go to. I had much more fun walking down the cobblestone streets with my gelato.

Saturday morning, I slept in, even though I had a busy day planned. At first I visited San Giovanni Laterano church, which was originally built by Constantine and was Rome’s most important medieval church. It was well decorated and had a lovely cloister featuring historical relics, one of which was a slab elevated at the height of Jesus (I didn’t quite make it). Next door, was the Sanctuario Pointificio Scala Santa (the Pope’s Sanctuary and Holy Steps). The actually sanctuary itself was once considered the holiest place in existence, containing an ancient alter from the 5th century. Centered in the church was the Holy Steps, a set of 28 stairs brought in by Constantine’s mother from the palace of Pontius Pilate. Since Christ was to have walked on this flight multiple times during his Passion, revenant pilgrims now climb these steps on their knees. I did not quite buy it, but I appreciated the symbolism anyways.


From here, I walked to the Basilica di San Clemente, which was my favorite church visit so far. Not only was the basilica itself impressive, with a golden mosaic and an impressive chapel, but what was underneath the church was far more interesting. For a small fee, one can descend into the lower church, built around the 8th century. It contained many early frescos, which told captivating stories (explained in English nearby). After exploring this old church, one can then descend even lower, into an old aristocratic residence of the 1st century that contained a temple to the pagan god of Mithras used through the 4th century. One does not have to appreciate history much to feel an eerie chills that one receives in such a place. The best part about this site was that it was well-kept and self-guided, so I never felt rushed as I explored every detail.

Admittedly, I tried to visit the Coliseum or the Roman Forum after this, but I knew that I did not have much time. I spent to long enjoying San Clemente. But to make matters worst, a gigantic political party rally had poised itself directly in front of the Coliseum, blocking an entire street. By the time I squeezed my through the crowd, everything was closed and there was no way to get around it all. So I retired back to room vowing to visit those sights the following morn. On the way, I stopped at San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains), which supposedly houses the chains that bound St. Peter in Rome as well as Michelangelo’s famous statue Moses.

When I woke up on Sunday though, I did not want to go. Instead, I wanted to go to the beach and visit the ruins of an old city that I had read about it my guidebook. I took the Metro to the Piramade stop, catching another tram that goes out into the suburbs. These other trains are used for commuters and do not cost any more, since you only pay once to get into the station. I got off at Ostia Antica, or Ancient Ostia, and made my way to the ruins.

Ostia Antica was at one time Rome’s port city. Since Rome is inland, it relied on much on Ostia to ship and receive its trade from the Mediterranean Sea. However, since Ostia was completely dependant on Rome, when the Empire fell, Ostia fell with it and was never restored. Today the ruins are a few miles inland and are spectacular.

Both guidebooks gave Ostia Antica a one-star, but I think it deserves much more. I went thinking I would spend a hour, but I spent at least four. The ruins make up the entire city. You have a theatre, baths, forum and a political center, which are all very nice, but then you also see residences, places of worships, meat markets, bars, stables and warehouses. A visit really opens one’s eyes to the everyday life of a bustling ancient town. The best part about these ruins is that you can explore them. There are very few places where barriers prevent one from going. I enjoyed getting lost in the deserted houses, walking from one to the next through collapse doorways or forgotten streets. Other highlights included located another underground temple dedicated to Mithras, descending into the cisterns and waterways of the Forum Baths and finding myself in the deepest part underneath a wealthy residence. I also located a mass burial site tucked away in the necropolis, which would have been riveting, had I not had a flashback from Rwanda. Its odd how the older history gets, the less emotionally-attached to it we become.

Leaving Ostia Antica thoroughly satisfied, I had one more goal to accomplish for the day: swim in the Mediterranean Sea. I continued on the train to Stella Polare, where I managed to find an opening on to the beach. Used to the beautiful and scenic beaches of home, I was slightly disappointed by the commercialized and uncharacteristic stretch of sand. All of this was okay though because of the sparkling sea in front of me. I thought of the last body of water I swam in: Lake Michigan at 9:30pm with my family on the eve of my departure. I rushed into the water, only to find that it was just a salty Lake Michigan, just as cold as the water was the night. I guess I expected something warmer. It was refreshing nonetheless. I walked up and down the beach until sunset, which exceeded my expectations. I spent the time thanking God for my restful and adventurous weekend, which was only possible now that I was not worrying about shelter or food. I prayed for those who could not say the same.

After being out and about all weekend, Monday was rather dull. Upon hearing about my weekend, everyone at the Mission seems impressed with how I utilize my free time. Hopefully I do the same during the weekday too, though all of my paperwork today did add up to much excitement. That changed today however. I will not tell you why, but if you Google News Search any of the topics I have discussed here, you should find the answer. Keywords: FAO and Food.

Thank you for reading another long one! God Bless!

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